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University  of  California  •  Berkley 


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Sty  IDa\>8  on  the 

Iburricane  IDecfc 

of  a  flftule 


Hn  Hccount  of  a  Journes  niaDe  on 
>acfe  in  Ibonburas,  C*H, 
in  Hugust,  1891 

BY 

Hlmira  Stillwell  Cole 


1803 
Iknfcfeerbocfeer  press 


Ubis  book  was  published  after  tbc  deatb  of  tbe  writer, 
for   Distribution   among   ber  relatives  an&  friends 


SIX  DAYS  ON  THE  HURRICANE 
DECK  OF  A  MULE. 

LAST  spring  I  almost  learned  to  ride  a 
bicycle. 

Those  who  have  had  a  similar  struggle 
will  correctly  estimate  the  exact  value  of 
that  word  almost.  I  was  laboring  under 
peculiar  difficulties,  for  I  was  a  whilom  in- 
mate of  one  of  those  sacred  institutions — a 
young  ladies'  boarding-school, — where  any 
infringement  upon  the  Spartan  law  of  dig- 
nity would  have  been  looked  upon  as 
less  pardonable  than  a  simultaneous  indul- 
gence in  the  seven  deadly  sins. 

My  agony  of  mind  and  body  under  those 
circumstances  can  be  better  imagined  than 
described.  Methought  life  held  no  more 
painful  experience,  but  how  impossible  it 


Dags  on  tbe 


is  to  gauge  endurance  and  classify  suffer- 
ing I  have  since  learned. 

When,  later  on,  I  announced  to  my 
friends  and  relatives  my  intention  of  tak- 
ing up  a  residence  in  the  interior  of  Hon- 
duras for  the  ensuing  five  years,  I  was 
fairly  overwhelmed  by  the  storm  of  excla- 
mations, reproaches,  dire  predictions,  and 
tearful  expostulations,  none  of  which  shook 
my  resolution. 

I  assured  them  that  the  trip  was  simple 
enough, — by  steamer  from  New  York  to 
Colon,  thence  by  rail  to  Panama,  where  a 
steamer  was  taken  to  Amapala,  and  then 
over  the  mountain  on  mule-back. 

One  friend  in  vain  tried  to  move  me  by 
drawing  dreadful  pictures  of  life  with  a 
ruined  complexion  ;  another  assured  me  I 
was  going  to  bury  myself  among  barbarians ; 
a  third  pointed  out  the  miseries  of  sea- 
sickness and  the  certainty  of  death  from 
some  fever  which  would  be  sure  to  attack 
me  at  once,  and  so  ad  infinitum. 

I  bore  it  all  as  meekly  as  possible  and 
with  outward  patience,  but  inward  raging. 


Iburricane  Decfc  of  a 


I  told  them  I  cared  more  for  the  com- 
plexion of  my  life  than  the  amount  of  sun- 
kissed  pigment  my  skin  contained  ;  I 
would  civilize  all  the  barbarians  I  found  ; 
and  since  others  had  endured  sea-sickness 
so  could  I. 

However,  at  last  a  teasing  cousin  did  hit 
upon  a  fact,  and  a  stubborn  one,  which  had 
tormented  me  considerably — that  mule  I 
was  to  ride.  He  assured  me  that  had  I 
ever  attempted  to  ride  a  wheel  I  would 
have  some  idea  of  what  was  in  store  for 
me.  With  a  sinking  heart  but  unabashed 
countenance,  I  smiled  a  superior  sort  of 
smile  and  replied  that  I  had  learned  to 
ride  a  wheel. 

"  Well,  a  mule  is  worse,"  was  the  reply 
that  somewhat  staggered  me. 

Then  I  did  not  believe  him,  but  now  I 
think  he  must  be  divinely  gifted  with  the 
spirit  of  prophecy. 

Sailing  day  came,  and  with  all  the  as- 
surance and  independence  of  a  typical 
American  young  woman,  I  stood  on  the 
deck  of  a  steamer  alone,  and  watched  the 


Dags  on  tbe 


familiar  faces  of  friends  fade  into  the 
distance. 

Sixteen  days  later,  as  I  was  about  to  go 
ashore  in  Honduras,  I  audibly  wondered 
why  any  one  should  find  the  journey  any- 
thing but  delightful.  Every  moment  had 
been  an  enjoyable  one,  and  I  had  entirely 
escaped  one  of  the  foretold  horrors.  Im- 
agine the  shadow  that  crept  across  the 
sunshine  of  my  mental  vision,  when  the 
Captain  of  the  ship  I  was  leaving  so  regret- 
fully remarked,  with  a  wise  and  mysterious 
shake  of  his  head  : 

u  Perhaps  you  will  see  why,  when  you 
have  been  for  six  days  on  the  hurricane 
deck  of  a  mule." 

A  youth,  considerably  my  junior,  whom 
I  had  known  well  as  a  schoolboy  in  the 
States,  had  come  with  two  men-servants 
and  six  mules  to  meet  me.  As  I  stood  on 
shore  and  watched  the  vessel  steam  out  of 
the  harbor,  I  did  almost  feel  as  if  I  had 
had  my  final  contact  with  civilization. 

We  went  at  once  to  the  hotel,  which  I 
thought  the  dirtiest  place  I  had  ever  seen. 


Iburrtcane  2>ecfc  of  a  flfcule          5 


Since  then  I  have  learned  to  discriminate 
nicely  between  different  degrees  of  filth. 

Here  we  were  obliged  to  remain  for  two 
days,  for  Amapala  is  on  an  island,  and  one 
has  to  be  transported  to  the  mainland  be- 
fore the  journey  can  be  continued.  The 
little  steamer  does  not  run  regularly,  as 
manana  is  the  same  as  to-day,  if  not  prefer- 
able, to  the  native  of  the  coast. 

We  could  hardly  believe  the  evidence  of 
our  senses  when  finally  we  were  plowing 
our  way  over  the  bay  toward  our  desired 
destination,  some  two  and  a  half  hours 
after  the  proprietors  of  the  launch  had  as- 
sured us  they  would  be  ready  to  start. 

In  all  the  heat  of  the  tropical  noonday 
sun  we  came  to  a  stop  two  hours  later,  at 
La  Brea,  and  alighted  upon  a  sandy  beach, 
back  of  which  were  a  store-house  and  a  few 
small  mud  cabins.  In  the  office  of  the  store- 
house we  ate  our  lunch,  and  shortly  after 
word  came  to  me  that  the  fated  moment 
for  mounting  had  arrived. 

With  a  heart  beating  with  apprehension 
I  went  outside  where  I  found  quite  a  group 


Bags  on  tbe 


of  curious  natives,  while  in  the  midst  stood 
the  antagonist  with  whom  I  was  to  wage 
such  an  unaccustomed  warfare — a  gentle- 
looking  beast,  gayly  trapped  out  in  a  hand- 
some saddle  of  red  and  tan  leather,  under 
which  was  a  corresponding  velvet  cloth. 

With  a  degree  of  satisfaction  somewhat 
reassuring,  I  noted  that  she  was  large 
enough  to  carry  me  and  yet  so  small  that 
a  fall  from  her  height  could  not  be  wholly 
fatal.  What  I  further  noticed  and  was 
troubled  by  was  the  fact  that  the  saddle 
was  made  for  the  right  side  instead  of  the 
left,  and  then  it  was  borne  in  upon  my 
mind,  that  the  hope  that  a  slight  experience 
on  horseback  ten  years  before  would  prove 
of  some  service  to  me  now,  was  a  perfectly 
futile  one.  I  was  about  to  embark  upon 
an  unknown  sea,  with  no  chart  to  guide 
me  in  its  navigation. 

Meanwhile  a  low  chair  had  been  brought, 
upon  which  I  climbed  preparatory  to  mak- 
ing the  further  ascent.  Just  then  rny 
courage  was  at  such  a  low  ebb  that  to  take 
the  next  step  seemed  beyond  me. 


Iburricane  Deck  of  a  dlbule 


"  Vincent,  I  can't  do  it." 

"  You  must,"  was  the  unsympathizing 
reply,  and  seeing  me  still  hesitate,  he 
added  :  "  You  can't  walk,  and  this  is  the 
only  way." 

That  settled  it.  In  sheer  despair,  I 
set  my  teeth  together,  shut  my  eyes  and 
jumped,  remembering  that  "  whatever  goes 
up  must  come  down  " — somewhere,  and  I 
did  not  much  care  where. 

Even  yet  I  retain  more  than  a  vivid 
memory  of  the  astonishment  I  felt  when  I 
discovered  that  I  had  actually  alighted  in 
the  right  place.  My  stock  of  self-esteem 
has  been  on  the  increase  ever  since. 

In  a  few  moments  we  started  merrily  off, 
I  soon  becoming  used  to  the  motion,  and 
rather  liking  it.  If  only  my  cousin  could 
have  witnessed  my  triumph,  my  happiness 
would  have  been  complete. 

The  road  lay  over  a  velvety  plain,  and 
for  a  couple  of  hours  we  rode  on,  the  only 
incident  at  all  exciting,  being  an  effort  on 
my  part  to  leave  my  head  perched  upon  a 
heavy  limb  of  an  overhanging  tree.  This 


8  5f£  2>ag9  on  tbc 

danger  past,  no  new  danger  presented  itself 
to  disturb  our  quiet  progress,  and  toward 
the  end  of  the  afternoon,  we  rode  into 
Nacaome,  the  little  village  where  we  were 
to  spend  the  night. 

Dismounting  at  the  entrance  to  an  adobe 
house,  with  doors  standing  hospitably  ajar, 
we  were  bidden  to  enter,  and  were  shown 
into  a  great  bare  room,  with  a  tiled  floor,  no 
ceiling  except  the  roof  of  tiles,  and  contain- 
ing two  chairs,  two  beds,  and  a  table.  There 
were  no  windows,  two  great  doors,  one  on 
each  side  of  the  corner,  admitting  light  and 
air,  and  at  one  side  of  the  room  a  smaller 
door  led  into  another  apartment,  for  this 
was  a  house  on  an  unusual  scale. 

The  native  bed  is  something  unique,  and 
perhaps  a  description  of  it  will  not  come 
amiss.  A  plain,  high,  single  wooden  bed- 
stead, such  as  we  sometimes  see  in  very 
old-fashioned  farm-houses,  first  has  ropes 
or  strips  of  skin  drawn  over  it,  upon  which 
is  placed  a  piece  of  matting,  or  in  some 
cases,  leather — the  latter  a  sign  of  luxury. 

During  the  day  it  presents  this  appear- 


Iburrtcane  2>ecfc  of  a 


ance,  but  at  night  a  hard  pillow  is  added, 
the  native  woman  wraps  herself  in  a  sheet, 
and  lies  down  on  the  matting  to  sleep  as 
peaceful  and  dreams  as  blissful,  let  us  hope, 
as  her  more  favored  sister  who  reclines 
upon  a  downy  couch  under  a  silken  cover- 
lid. 

I  had  no  occasion  to  test  the  comfort  of 
this  bed  in  its  primitive  state,  for  our 
servants  had  brought  with  them  every- 
thing that  could  render  our  quarters  bear- 
able if  there  were  any  foundation  upon 
which  to  build. 

A  hammock  was  slung  up  in  the  room, 
and  I  found  I  had  never  before  cherished 
a  proper  appreciation  of  one.  Even  a 
summer  girl,  with  all  the  romantic  acces- 
sories of  "shady  nook,  babbling  brook/' 
and  so  on,  can  form  no  conception  of  the 
soul-satisfying  comfort  derived  from  aban- 
doning oneself  to  the  luxurious  embrace  of 
a  hammock,  after  a  few  hours'  ride  on  a 
mule.  One  friend  who  had  survived  the 
experience  I  was  just  beginning,  had  warned 
me  not  to  think  death  was  nigh  at  the  end 


io  sf£  Bags  on  tbe 


of  the  first  day,  so  I  lay  there  almost  vainly 
trying  to  convince  myself  that  these  were 
only  natural  and  ordinary  sensations  and 
would  not  bring  about  a  general  dissolu- 
tion. 

Thus  reflecting  I  fell  into  a  kind  sleep, 
from  which  I  was  aroused  by  a  terrific  clap 
of  thunder  and  such  a  deluge  Of  rain  as  I 
had  never  witnessed.  Heretofore  I  had 
always  disliked  lightning,  but  nature's  pres- 
ent "  pyrotechnical  display  "  challenged 
naught  but  my  most  enthusiastic  admira- 
tion. When  it  was  over  supper  was  an- 
nounced, and  soon  afterward  we  retired  for 
the  night,  I  occupying  one  of  -the  beds  in 
the  big  room,  one  of  the  women  of  the 
house  the  other,  and  poor  Vincent  being 
relegated  to  a  hammock  swung  up  in  the 
next  room,  where  the  entire  family — men, 
women,  and  children — slept. 

I  was  soon  oblivious  to  my  surroundings, 
and,  in  the  style  of  the  chroniclers,  thus 
endeth  the  history  of  the  first  day. 

Upon  awaking  the  following  morning, 
I  found  I  was  considerably  rested,  and 


Iburrtcane  Decfc  of  a  flfoule 


quite  willing  to  undertake  a  continuance 
of  the  journey,  for  which  a  specially 
glorious  day  seemed  promised. 

About  half  past  seven  we  were  off,  I 
having  mounted  my  steed  with  a  little  more 
agility  than  before.  Indeed,  I  improved 
so  rapidly  in  this  respect  before  the  trip 
was  over,  that  my  companion,  in  a  burst  of 
boyish  enthusiasm,  gave  it  as  his  opinion 
that  I  could  "  earn  five  dollars  a  day  in 
Buffalo  Bill's  show."  What  untold  wealth 
might  now  have  been  mine  had  not  this 
talent  so  long  lain  dormant ! 

About  half  a  mile  from  our  starting-point 
we  came  to  a  river  which  at  this  place  had 
divided  itself,  forming  two  forks,  and  both 
had  become  so  swollen  during  the  present 
rainy  season  that  it  seemed  a  serious  matter 
to  ford  them,  especially  when  my  inexperi- 
ence was  taken  into  consideration. 

An  Indian,  who  lived  on  the  bank,  when 
drawn  into  the  consultation  advised  us  to 
go  farther  down  and  cross  the  big  river 
in  a  canoe.  We  went,  he  acting  as  our 
guide,  and  when  we  came  to  the  place 


12  Sf£  Bags  on  tbe 


where  the  canoe  ought  to  be,  behold,  it 
was  on  the  other  side  of  the  stream. 

Then  ensued  such  a  series  of  screeches 
and  yells  as  made  me  tremble  for  the  safety 
of  my  scalp  and  look  furtively  around  for 
a  score  of  blood-thirsty  natives  to  spring 
from  ambush,  but  when  my  fears  were 
somewhat  calmed  I  understood  that  our 
guide  was  merely  calling  to  the  boatman 
across  the  way. 

His  efforts  met  with  no  success,  and  with 
a  stream  of  eloquence  which  my  limited 
knowledge  of  profanity  would  never  allow 
me  to  translate  into  plain  English,  he  rolled 
up  his  trousers,  grabbed  the  halter  of  my 
mule,  and  without  further  ado  plunged  into 
the  water  and  made  for  the  other  shore. 

Sometime  I  will  put  it  on  record  for  how 
long  it  is  possible  to  hold  one's  breath. 
Puring  the  time  we  were  slipping  and  slid- 
ing over  the  stones,  sometimes  finding  a 
foothold  almost  an  impossibility  and  with 
difficulty  breasting  the  current,  I  had  no 
use  whatever  for  oxygen,  but  lived  wholly 
upon  terror  and  the  thought  of  a  watery 


Iburrfcane  2>ecfc  of  a  dlbule         13 


grave.  Such  was  not  to  be  my  fate,  how- 
ever, and  I  escaped  to  endure  greater 
trials  and  revel  in  far  more  wonderful 
experiences. 

After  reaching  terra  firma,  on  and  on  we 
rode  over  a  plain  similar  to  the  one  we  had 
traversed  the  previous  afternoon.  Once 
we  came  to  a  tiny  stream  flowing  across 
our  path,  so  small  it  was  hardly  worth 
noticing,  but  to  my  surprise  my  mule  ob- 
jected so  seriously  and  so  suddenly  to 
wetting  her  feet,  that  I  was  nearly  un- 
seated, and  in  consequence  was  led  to 
investigate  the  cause  of  her  conduct.  I 
somewhat  sympathized  with  her  when  I 
found  that  the  pretty  light  blue  rivulet  was 
formed  of  steaming  hot  water,  the  outlet 
of  a  boiling  spring  hard  by.  In  time  my 
superior  will  conquered,  and  we  crossed 
the  water,  which  is  so  hot  that  eggs  can  be 
cooked  in  it. 

As  we  were  riding  along  in  silence,  I 
watching  the  many-colored  lizards  darting 
from  our  vicinity,  marvelling  at  the  size 
attained  by  the  cactus  in  its  native  clime, 


14  Sij  Bags  on  tbc 


and  indulging  in  many  comparisons,  not 
odious,  I  was  suddenly  startled  by  a  most 
outrageous  din  apparently  proceeding  from 
a  clump  of  trees  just  before  us — such 
groans  and  shrieks  as  if  all  civilized  crea- 
tion were  yielding  up  the  ghost  in  the  last 
throes  of  mortal  agony  for  the  special 
delectation  of  innumerable  cannibals, 
whose  cries  and  yells  of  evident  delight 
could  also  be  plainly  heard. 

Terror-stricken,  I  glanced  at  my  com- 
panion, but  he  seemed  perfectly  undis- 
turbed. 

"What  is  it?'*  I  managed  to  hoarsely 
whisper. 

"  Wagons,"  he  briefly  ejaculated. 

And  wagons  I  found  it  to  be  of  a  kind 
and  class  utterly  unknown  to  me.  The 
wheels  were  slices  of  trees,  cut  diametri- 
cally, in  the  centre  of  which  holes  had  been 
bored  for  the  insertion  of  the  axles. 

I  think  in  order  to  fully  accomplish  the 
feat  of  making  this  a  two-wheeled  cart, 
and  a  music  box  combined,  they  must 
have  used  kerosene  oil  for  axle  grease.  So 


twrrfcane  2>ecfc  of  a  flfcule         15 


much  for  the  sound  of  concentrated  human 
woe  which  I  must  eternally  regret  Milton 
could  not  have  heard  before  he  described 
the  sufferings  of  the  lost  souls  in  purgatory. 
The  cries  of  fiendish  joy  were  only  the 
loving  words  of  cheer  addressed  by  the 
charioteers  to  the  patient  oxen  drawing  the 
creaking,  rumbling,  rolling  wagons  on  over 
the  rough,  uneven  roads. 

Gladly  we  passed  them  by  and  as  quickly 
as  possible  got  beyond  earshot. 

At  noon  the  servants  had  not  yet  over- 
taken us,  and  as  we  were  fairly  famished,  we 
stopped  at  an  Indian  hut  along  the  way, 
to  partake  of  any  hospitality  the  place 
might  afford. 

It  did  not  look  particularly  inviting,  I 
must  confess.  An  old  man,  whose  whole 
attire  consisted  of  a  pair  of  trousers  and  a 
hat,  sat  outside  the  door,  the  centre  of  a 
more  or  less  scantily  clad  group  of  women 
and  children,  while  around  all,  caloes,  pigs, 
chickens,  ducks,  and  cats  ran  riot. 

I  must  say  for  the  Indian  of  Honduras 
that  no  matter  what  his  degree  of  filth, 


16  5f£  S>ag8  on  tbe 


poverty,  nakedness,  or  intelligence,  he 
never  hesitates  for  one  instant  to  take  in  a 
stranger  and  share  with  him  all  that  he 
has. 

It  was,  perhaps,  this  novel  and  spon- 
taneous kindness  added  to  my  more  than 
perfect  willingness  to  endure  a  restful  sep- 
aration from  my  mule,  which  induced  me 
to  get  down  and  enter  that  house  with  all 
my  inborn  and  inbred  love  of  cleanliness 
and  daintiness  crying  out  within  me. 

Only  one  door  led  into  the  one  room 
containing  beds,  table,  chair,  boxes,  and 
oh,  bliss  !  a  hammock,  which,  dirty  as  it 
was,  I  was  only  too  thankful  to  occupy. 
No  window  lighted  the  darkness  of  the 
place,  or  afforded  an  occasional  breath  of 
fresh  air.  The  floor  was  packed  earth  and 
was  so  dirty  that  it  was  a  perfect  paradise 
for  swarms  of  fleas  and  other  insects. 

Vincent  shot  a  chicken,  which  one  of 
the  women  cooked — a  proceeding  which 
an  Indian  woman  can  accomplish  with 
greater  celerity  and  success  than  any  I 
have  hitherto  encountered.  This  fowl  was 


fwrricane  2>ecfc  of  a  /Iftule         17 


simply  delicious,  and,  with  boiled  eggs  and 
tortillas  in  addition,  served  as  an  admirable 
means  of  refreshing  our  starving  bodies, 
and  we  partook  of  all  heartily,  in  spite  of 
the  more  than  unappetizing  surroundings. 

After  our  mules  had  finished  their  repast 
of  cut  grass,  we  proceeded  on  our  route. 
Considering  the  avidity  with  which  the 
harmless-looking  little  insects,  known  here 
as  pulgas,  had  seized  upon  me  as  a  new 
and  delicious  morsel  upon  which  to  prey, 
I  was  not  sorry  to  flee  from  them,  and  the 
motion  of  the  mule  seemed  to  allay  the 
horrible  irritation  which  I  could  only  locate 
as  "  all  over." 

During  the  afternoon  we  just  skirted  the 
town  of  Pespire,  and  then  passed  into 
shady  lanes  which  wound  in  and  out  a 
country  gradually  becoming  more  undu- 
lating. 

It  was  not  a  great  while  before  we  dis- 
covered that  a  sudden  shower,  so  common 
in  tropical  countries,  was  upon  us,  and  in 
all  probability  we  had  before  us  the  pleas- 
ant prospect  of  a  drenching. 


1 8  Sf£  Dags  on  tbc 


We  were  not  wrong  in  our  guess,  for  the 
water,  ere  many  moments  had  passed, 
came  down  in  torrents.  With  one  hand  I 
held  my  umbrella  and  so  protected  my 
head  and  shoulders,  and  with  the  other 
guided  my  mule. 

Before  the  rain  ceased  we  came  to  a 
house  where  Vincent  informed  me  we 
would  find  our  quarters  until  morning. 

Three  women  sat  in  front  of  the  house, 
under  shelter  of  the  projecting  roof,  one 
smoking  a  cigarette  and  the  other  two 
shelling  corn.  A  hammock  was  hung 
here,  and  two  chairs,  a  bench,  and  a  table 
completed  the  furniture  of  this  outside 
room. 

Mules,  pigs,  dogs,  and  chickens  roamed 
at  will  in  the  yard  directly  in  front,  which 
was  muddy  and  shiny,  and  reeking  with 
filth. 

My  heart  sank  lower  than  ever  within 
me,  but  summoning  up  what  I  could  of 
my  resolution  to  bear  uncomplainingly 
whatever  came,  I  got  off  my  mule,  stiff, 
lame,  wet,  and  cold,  and  sat  down  in  the 


Iburricane  Decfc  of  a  jflfoule         19 


hammock,  wondering  how  much  more  I 
could  endure. 

We  had  not  seen  our  servants  since 
morning,  and  were  becoming  somewhat 
anxious,  remembering  the  river  and  the 
rain,  but  still  found  consolation  in  the 
thought  that  the  heavily  laden  pack  mules 
could  not  travel  as  fast  as  we  had  done. 

Hardly  had  we  settled  ourselves  under 
this  shelter  when  a  man  rode  up,  appar- 
ently "the  lord  of  the  manor."  He  was 
about  fifty  years  of  age,  whiter  than  the 
women,  and  was  getting  a  horrible  goitre, 
an  affliction  that  one  of  the  girls,  his 
daughter,  was  also  suffering  from,  and 
which  seemed  quite  a  common  one  in  the 
vicinity. 

A  few  words  of  explanation  from  the 
pretty  cigarette-smoker,  who,  though  not 
his  wife,  seemed  to  be  the  mistress  of  the 
household,  apparently  satisfied  him,  and 
he  subsequently  took  our  presence  as  a 
matter  of  course. 

He  seated  himself  in  the  chair  by  the 
table,  his  supper  of  black  beans,  meat, 


Bags  on  tbe 


cheese,  and  tortillas  was  brought  and  dis- 
patched without  the  aid  of  either  knife  or 
fork,  and  then  he  turned  his  attention  to 
our  entertainment. 

Notwithstanding  the  unwelcome  sights 
and  odors,  we  were  becoming  very  hungry 
again,  and  as  our  men  still  abstained  from 
putting  in  an  appearance,  we  were  more 
than  glad  to  take  the  eggs,  tortillas,  and 
coffee  given  us.  True  it  is  that  oftentimes 
during  that  six  days,  I  ate  and  relished 
such  food  in  places  where,  under  ordinary 
circumstances,  I  would  not  have  tasted  a 
mouthful  of  the  most  tempting  delicacies. 

About  dark  one  of  the  men  came  with 
three  of  the  mules,  but  the  other  man  had 
lost  himself  in  trying  to  find  us,  and  not 
until  several  hours  later  did  he  succeed  in 
his  quest. 

Meanwhile  I  was  secretly  tormented  by 
the  painful  anxiety  to  know  where  I  was 
to  sleep.  One  dark,  ill-smelling  room  was 
all  the  house  contained,  except  a  shed  used 
as  a  kitchen,  and  I  could  not  see  how  the 
most  ingenious  hostess  could  make  two 


Iburttcane  Beck  of  a  /Iftule         21 


guests  of  different  sexes  comfortable,  how- 
ever much  she  might  incommode  the  family. 

To  my  utter  horror  I  learned  that,  with 
no  conception  of  any  possible  scruples  on 
my  part,  she  had  arranged  for  me  to  have 
one  of  the  four  beds,  the  women  of  the 
house  the  remaining  three,  while  the  mas- 
ter and  Vincent  were  to  occupy  hammocks 
in  the  same  room. 

With  stoical  disregard  of  masculine  ob- 
servance, these  native  families  disrobed 
themselves,  skilfully  it  is  true,  though  the 
process  of  necessity  was  a  short  one,  and 
then,  in  company  with  their  male  compan- 
ion, deliberately  set  themselves  to  watch 
my  preparations  for  the  night. 

These  last,  you  may  be  sure,  were  of  the 
simplest  kind.  I  took  off  my  shoes  and 
let  down  my  hair,  and  then  in  my  still  wet 
dress,  which  was  fortunately  a  flannel  one, 
I  crept  into  the  bed  the  servant  had  made 
up  with  the  clothes  we  carried  with  us. 

Vincent's  night  toilet  was  still  less  elab- 
orate. 

He    unbuckled   the  leather  belt    upon 


22  5i£  2>ags  on  tbe 


which  hung  his  revolver,  and  brought  it 
over  to  me  with  a  brief  injunction  that  I 
was  to  use  it  if  need  be.  A  startling  sug- 
gestion truly,  but  the  weapon  gave  me  a 
sense  of  security,  though  it  was  such  an  enor- 
mous one  that  I  knew  with  both  hands  on 
the  trigger,  both  eyes  tight  shut,  and  mouth 
firmly  set  in  the  usual  feminine  way,  I  could 
never  make  the  thing  go  off,  in  time  to  ren- 
der me  more  than  a  post-mortem  defence. 

As  the  burning  pine  sticks  which  had 
furnished  light  for  us,  slowly  crumbled  into 
ashes,  I  heard  a  wonder-struck  voice  ask 
if  all  the  American  ladies  went  to  bed  with 
their  clothes  on,  to  which  Vincent,  sharing 
my  desire  to  do  or  say  nothing  that  could 
hurt  their  feelings,  gravely  replied  that  it 
was  the  national  custom. 

Of  course  I  did  not  sleep,  tired  as  I  was 
— I  was  more  than  half  afraid  to  close  my 
eyes,  and  when  I  finally  did  summon  up 
sufficient  courage  to  do  so,  there  ensued  a 
series  of  disturbances  that  successfully 
banished  any  further  somnolent  inclination 
for  the  night. 


Iburricane  Decfc  of  a  dRule         23 


First  our  man,  Eduardo,  arrived,  and  all 
the  animals  about  felt  it  their  bounden  duty 
to  extend  to  him  a  welcome,  whence  began 
a  simultaneous  barking  of  dogs,  mewing 
of  cats,  grunting  of  pigs,  crowing  of  roost- 
ers, quacking  of  ducks,  braying  of  mules, 
neighing  of  horses,  and  wagging  of  tongues, 
as  I  had  never  heard  since  in  my  childish 
days  we  had  "  lived  on  my  fathers  farm  in 
the  green  fields  of  barley." 

When  that  commotion  had  subsided,  our 
host  sank  into  slumber  so  noisy  that  I  lay 
there  in  momentary  expectation  of  seeing 
the  roof  depart  upon  a  celestial  journey, 
and  I  am  sure  it  was  only  saved  from  dis- 
placement by  the  rebellion  of  his  throat 
causing  a  terrific  fit  of  coughing.  This 
over,  he  recounted  a  vivid,  if  stupid  dream 
he  had  just  had,  and  then  once  more  came 
restful  silence. 

It  was  not  to  last  long,  however,  for  in 
the  early  dawn  a  neighbor  rode  over  to 
help  kill  a  pig,  but  after  a  lengthy  debate, 
it  was  decided  that  mafiana  would  do  as 
well. 


24  Si£  2>a£S  on  tbe 


By  this  time  the  farm  world  was  astir, 
and  we  were  not  long  in  following  suit. 
So,  tired,  dirty,  still  damp  from  yesterday's 
rain,  I  arose  to  meet  the  trials  and  tribula- 
tions of  the  third  day. 

Two  little  facts  came  to  my  knowledge 
before  our  simple  breakfast,  which  gave  a 
new  color  to  my  thoughts  and  revived  my 
drooping  spirits. 

One  was  a  prospect  of  absolute  cleanli- 
ness, for  Vincent  told  me  they  had  a  bath- 
room in  their  house,  a  luxury  I  must 
confess  I  had  not  expected  to  find  in  a 
small  village  in  interior  Honduras. 

At  Amalapa  I  had  most  regretfully  said 
good-by  to  two  good  steamer  friends  who 
were  going  to  the  capital  by  another  road, 
and  one  which  led  through  Pespire,  the 
little  village  we  had  passed  the  previous 
afternoon. 

As  good  luck  would  have  it,  Eduardo, 
in  his  wanderings,  had  gone  to  a  sort  of 
agency  there  to  inquire  if  we  had  been 
seen,  and  had  found  a  letter  for  me,  left 
by  one  of  the  two  travellers  who  had  pre- 


Iburrtcane  2>ecfc  of  a  /Ifcule         25 


ceded  us.  Surely  never  a  communication 
from  the  dearest  friend  I  had  ever  had  was 
quite  so  eagerly  seized  and  devoured  as 
was  this  brief  note,  which  came  to  me  like 
a  refreshing  glimpse  of  the  world  I  had 
known.  Heaven  bless  the  writer  for  his 
kindly  inspiration  ! 

At  eight  o'clock  we  were  again  mounted, 
and  had  said  good-by  for  ever,  I  trust,  to 
San  yuan.  Oh,  mockery  of  names!  Mean- 
while my  companion  had  informed  me  that 
we  would  soon  come  to  the  mountains, 
where  I  knew  I  should  meet  the  much- 
talked-of  equestrian  difficulty. 

We  had  not  ridden  long  before  it  seemed 
to  me  our  road  came  to  a  sudden  termina- 
tion, for  right  before  us  rose  a  steep  and 
rocky  cliff.  Too  soon  I  learned  that  we 
must  scale  this  ;  so  grasping  my  saddle 
firmly,  I  prepared  to  hang  on  while  the 
mule  did  the  rest.  Just  in  the  worst  part 
of  it,  I  became  aware  that  the  saddle  was 
turning,  and  no  effort  or  skill  of  mine 
could  save  me  from  a  fall.  Vincent  saw 
my  danger  and  shouted  to  me  to  jump,  at 


26  Sf£  Bags  on  tbe 


the  same  time  dismounting  and  hurrying 
to  my  assistance.  With  all  too  brief  a 
prayer  for  mercy,  I  let  go  of  everything 
except  the  bridle,  and  landed  a  shapeless 
mass,  fortunately  one  containing  consider- 
able adipose,  directly  under  the  mule  and 
upon  a  bed  of  jagged  rocks. 

My  mule,  bless  her  heart!  never  stirred, 
or  I  should  either  have  had  my  head 
crushed  by  her  hoofs,  or  have  been  hurled 
into  the  depths  below. 

As  it  was  I  was  only  slightly  bruised, 
and  very  shaky,  but  as  soon  as  the  saddle 
was  righted  and  firmly  fastened,  I  was 
ready  to  mount  and  go  on. 

Then  I  was  not  so  anxious  for  my 
cousin's  presence,  though  Vincent  will  bear 
me  witness  that  it  was  no  fault  of  mine. 

I  learned  during  the  day  that  the  Spanish 
word  for  road  is  a  most  expansive  one. 
For  miles  we  went  up  and  down  over 
smooth,  glaring  white  rocks,  where  no  ani- 
mal on  earth  but  a  Honduras  mule  could 
have  found  a  footing.  When  I  saw  any 
particularly  rugged  bit  of  scenery,  a  gorge, 


Iburricane  Becfc  of  a  /nbule         27 


a  cliff,  where  surely  human  foot  had  never 
trod,  I  was  told  it  was  the  road.  I  never 
foresaw  where  we  were  going  for  one  in- 
stant. I  kept  the  reins  in  my  hand,  but 
never  pretended  to  guide  the  animal,  whose 
intelligence  I  now  had  to  admit  was  supe- 
rior to  my  own.  When  we  were  going  along 
the  brinks  of  precipices  so  frightful  that  I 
dared  not  look  over,  I  fixed  my  eyes  upon 
the  ears  wagging  so  complacently  before 
me,  and  imbibed  courage  therefrom. 

Withal  I  was  a  trifle  amused  at  the  con- 
viction that  I,  who  had  hitherto  not  quite 
entirely  trusted  any  one,  not  even  a  man, 
was  now  abandoning  myself  to  a  most 
consuming  confidence  in  a  mule. 

On  in  this  way  we  went  for  six  mortal 
hours,  through  pine  forests  with  the  trees 
so  far  apart  that  we  got  no  shade,  over  the 
white  rocks  that  nearly  blinded  us,  and 
with  the  sun  pouring  down  upon  us  in 
midday  fury. 

Then  we  began  to  ascend  an  almost 
perpendicular  peak. 

When  little  more  than    half-way  up,  a 


28  5i£  Dags  on  tbe 


mule  and  driver  came  suddenly  around  a 
sharp  turn  and  so  startled  my  hitherto 
gentle  animal  that,  with  a  snort  of  rage, 
she  jumped  from  the  path  and  bounded 
from  rock  to  rock  of  the  cliff  above,  I 
meanwhile  clinging  to  her  like  a  burr,  and 
momentarily  expecting  to  roll  with  her  into 
the  ragged  gully  hundreds  of  feet  below. 

But  again  I  was  doomed  to  happy  disap- 
pointment, for  a  final  effort  carried  us  over 
a  particularly  dangerous  projection,  and 
the  next  instant  we  were  on  a  plain  and 
only  a  few  rods  from  La  Breita,  our  stop- 
ping-place. 

I  scarcely  remember  how  I  dismounted. 
I  know  it  was  with  great  difficulty  that  I 
got  myself  straightened  from  a  sitting  pos- 
ture, and  entered  a  house  so  cool  and  clean 
that  I  thought  I  must  have  unwittingly 
stumbled  into  Paradise.  It  goes  without 
saying  that  I  was  soon  in  a  hammock,  try- 
ing amid  those  comfortable  surroundings 
to  forget  how  every  bone  and  muscle 
ached,  how  a  combination  of  sleeplessness, 
continued  fasting,  and  the  glaring  roadway 


Iburrtcane  2>ecfc  of  a  /ifcule         29 


was  tending  to  bring  on  a  fearful  headache, 
and  that  there  were  still  three  days  of  the 
journey  ahead  of  me. 

However,  by  the  time  I  had  eaten  some 
lunch  I  felt  better,  and  began  to  take  an 
interest  in  my  surroundings. 

The  house,  of  course,  was  one  of  the 
class  Bret  Harte  describes  as  "those 
queer  little  adobe  buildings,  with  tiled 
roofs  like  longitudinal  slips  of  cinnamon," 
and  belonged  to  a  well-to-do  family,  the 
head  of  which  was  a  large  mule  owner, 
who  had  amassed  his  wealth  in  carrying 
cargoes  from  the  coast  to  the  interior. 

He  was  not  at  home,  so  his  wife,  two 
daughters,  a  servant,  and  a  half-foolish  boy 
of  eighteen  or  nineteen,  were  the  only  in- 
mates of  the  house. 

On  this  particular  afternoon  they  were 
entertaining  three  girl  friends — the  two 
younger  ones  being  pretty,  and  naturally 
clad  in  the  costume  of  their  race,  while  the 
older  one  had  unfortunately  become  imbued 
with  some  so-called  civilized  ideas  regard- 
ing her  toilet. 


30  Sf£  Bags  on  tbe 


A  calico  dress  of  the  most  painfully  in- 
tense pink  was  made  with  a  full,  plain 
skirt  and  an  ill-fitting  basque,  which  failed 
to  accomplish  a  meeting  with  the  skirt  at 
the  usual  trysting-place.  Over  this  she 
had  a  shawl  of  the  most  royal  shade  of 
purple  imaginable,  and  instead  of  looking 
like  a  pretty,  graceful  Indian  girl,  she  ap- 
peared to  be  a  variegated  monstrosity. 

I  feel  self-reproached  at  criticising  her 
thus,  for  she,  with  the  other  two  visitors, 
admired  me  intensely,  and  when  sufficient 
time  had  elapsed  for  them  to  conquer 
their  bashfulness,  they  asked  Vincent,  in 
hushed  and  reverent  tones,  if  all  the  ladies 
in  the  States  were  so  "  tall,  and  nice,  and 
white,  and  beautiful." 

I  had  previously  known  that  I  was  tall 
and  could  be  nice  when  occasion  demanded 
it,  but  it  required  the  elastic  conscience 
and  easily  aroused  admiration  of  a  warmer- 
blooded  race  than  mine,  to  find  whiteness 
or  beauty  in  the  face  of  an  ordinary,  typical, 
American  brunette. 

They  departed    before  dark,  and   with 


Iburticane  2>ecfc  of  a  dfoule         31 


dark  came  a  return  of  the  perplexity  re- 
garding the  sleeping  accommodations  I  had 
experienced  at  San  yuan. 

In  the  large  room — the  living  room — 
there  were  two  beds,  a  hammock,  some 
chairs,  two  tables,  and — a  "  New  Home  " 
sewing-machine!  Off  one  end  of  this  there 
was  a  small  apartment  also  containing  two 
beds,  and  separated  from  the  larger  one  by 
a  board  partition  perhaps  six  or  seven  feet 
high. 

In  my  inmost  heart  I  longed  for  the  pri- 
vacy of  this  narrow  space,  but  such  was 
not  in  accordance  with  our  hostess'  idea 
of  hospitality.  I  was  assigned  to  a  bed 
covered  by  a  crucifix-surmounted  canopy, 
in  the  main  room,  and  Vincent  was  invited 
to  take  the  other.  Upon  his  modestly 
stating  he  would  sleep  somewhere  in  a 
hammock,  the  mistress  told  the  foolish  boy 
he  could  have  that  bed.  To  this  I  objected, 
in  English,  and  forthwith  Vincent  was  led 
to  change  his  mind  and  accept  the  pre- 
viously refused  favor. 

While  I  was  making  my  nocturnal  prep- 


32  Sij  2>a£6  on  tbe 


arations,  complete  enough  to  insure  com- 
fort, I  remember  lazily  musing  upon  the 
horrified,  scandalized  countenances  some 
good  friends  would  present,  could  they 
know  how  easily  I  was  discarding  all  pre- 
vious teachings  and  traditions,  and,  with- 
out a  struggle,  embracing  new  creeds  and 
customs.  I  recall  that  I  realized  it  was  my 
duty,  as  a  properly  reared  product  of 
civilization,  to  go  out  and  sit  on  a  fence, 
if  need  be,  to  maintain  my  maidenly  isola- 
tion and  dignity,  but  I  was  too  tired. 

It  is  not  the  first  case  on  record  when  a 
willing  spirit  has  been  worsted  by  weak 
flesh  in  a  moral  combat. 

I  slept  as  long,  blissfully,  and  dreamless- 
ly,  as  if  I  had  not  the  heinous  crime  of 
having  defied  Mrs.  Grundy  upon  my  con- 
science, and  awoke  on  the  morning  of  the 
fourth  day  feeling  decidedly  refreshed. 

Before  us  lay  the  longest  day's  ride  of 
all,  so  we  were  anxious  to  be  off  as  early  as 
possible.  We  had  our  breakfast  of  coffee 
and  rosquillas,  not  a  hearty  repast,  and 
prepared  to  mount. 


fburrtcane  Decfc  of  a  /ifoule         33 


After  each  female  member  of  the  house- 
hold had  minutely  examined  my  dress,  hat, 
gloves,  and  veil,  and  remarked  thereon  ; 
after  Vincent  had  written  down  my  name 
and  had  taught  them  to  pronounce  it,  and 
had,  in  answer  to  their  unresented  inqui- 
ries, given  them  choice  bits  of  my  history  ; 
after  they  had,  it  seemed  to  me,  exhausted 
all  their  resources  to  detain  us  further, 
some  one  of  them  suddenly  bethought  her- 
self of  one  of  the  fixtures  of  the  machine, 
whose  use  they  could  not  determine. 

I  think  I  sank  in  their  estimation  some- 
what, because  1  could  not  enlighten  them. 
I  suggested  hemmer,  tucker,  quilter, 
braider,  ruffler,  and  every  known  attach- 
ment I  could  think  of,  but  each  was  pro- 
duced with  a  flourish  that  negatived  every 
proposition. 

I  finally  gave  it  up,  but  if  the  New  Home 
Sewing  Machine  Co.  will  communicate  with 
me,  I  will  some  time,  for  penance,  make  a 
journey  to  La  Breita,  and  reinstate  myself 
in  the  good  graces  of  the  kindly  inhabitants 
thereof,  by  solving  the  mystery  for  them. 


34  Sf£  Bags  on  tbe 


About  half  past  seven  we  did  get  off, 
and  could  all  the  good  wishes  that  were 
given  us  in  parting  come  true,  we  would 
be  more  than  mortally  favored. 

We  had  no  rough  roads  to  go  over  that 
day.  Across  grassy  plains  where  hun- 
dreds of  cattle  were  grazing  ;  through 
shady  lanes  that  seemed  like  the  pictu- 
resque bridle  paths  of  carefully  cultivated 
parks,  we  rode  for  four  hours,  and  then 
reaching  a  decently  clean  house  we 
stopped,  the  "inner  man  "  having  clamored 
for  refreshment  for  some  time. 

We  found  a  young  girl  here,  taking  care 
of  two  children  for  their  absent  father  and 
mother,  and  not  a  thing  did  she  feel  like 
shouldering  the  responsibility  of  giving  us 
but  one  wretched  ear  of  roast  corn.  In 
vain  we  begged  and  offered  enormous 
sums  for  just  one  of  the  many  fowls  run- 
ning about, — she  was  not  to  be  moved. 
In  despair  we  disposed  ourselves  under  a 
huge  tree  by  the  roadside  to  await  the 
arrival  of  Eduardo. 

I  believe  it  was  some  two  hours  after- 


Iburncane  Decfc  of  a  jflRule         35 


ward  that  he  came,  just  as  we  were  going 
to  cast  lots  as  to  who  should  devour  the 
other.  Right  glad  were  we  to  substitute 
the  appetizing  lunch  soon  spread  for  us  in 
true  picnic  style,  and  full  justice  did  we 
show  it. 

It  was  not  long  before  we  were  again  on 
our  way,  feeling  much  better  satisfied  with 
ourselves  and  the  world  in  general.  What 
a  cure  for  the  "  blues "  a  good  square 
meal  is  ! 

Just  before  we  reached  a  little  town,  La 
Armenia,  we  made  a  descent  of  some  won- 
derful rocks.  I  looked  back  at  them  and 
wished  I  had  a  camera.  I  know  a  picture 
of  them,  with  "  Where  did  they  come 
from  ? "  written  underneath,  would  bring 
me  a  small  fortune  as  a  copyrighted  prize 
puzzle.  No  one  but  a  mule  could  solve 
it ;  and  after  all  that  would  be  the  best 
answer.  I  cannot  do  any  better  myself, 
even  after  having  made  the  dizzy  journey 
from  top  to  bottom. 

We  trotted  through  La  Armenia  in  our 
very  best  style — I,  because  I  did  not  want 


36  5i£  Bags  on  tbe 


to  be  unfavorably  compared  with  an  habit- 
ual mule-back  performer, — Vincent,  be- 
cause, as  he  afterwards  confided  to  me, 
one  of  the  prettiest  girls  in  all  Honduras 
lived  there. 

The  rest  of  the  afternoon  passed  un- 
eventfully enough.  To  reach  San  Pedro 
was  the  object  of  our  exertion,  and  fondly 
I  hoped  the  key-keeping  saint  would  un- 
lock some  safe  and  savory  abiding-place 
for  our  night's  habitation. 

About  half  after  five  I  saw  before  us  a 
church  and  a  few  small  houses,  and  though 
I  heard  no  crowing  of  cocks,  a  barking  of 
dogs  intimated  that  we  had  reached  a  vil- 
lage, none  other  than  the  namesake  of 
Rome's  favorite  apostle. 

At  the  farther  end  of  the  settlement  we 
found  our  accommodations. 

Outwardly  considered  these  houses  are 
much  alike,  and  though  the  inside  furniture 
is  almost  as  similar  in  kind  and  disposi- 
tion, the  interiors  do  vary  greatly  after  all. 

As  I  lay  in  a  hammock  which  had  been 
put  up  for  me  in  front  of  the  house,  and 


Iburricane  2>ecfc  of  a  /IBule         37 


watched  the  moon  rise  from  behind  a 
mountain  just  across  the  road,  it  seemed 
to  me  that  life  was  very  beautiful  and  well 
worth  living,  in  spite  of  all  its  hardships. 
The  higher  the  moon  rose,  the  more  fully 
her  glorious  rays  streamed  over  all  the 
surrounding  objects  and  bathed  them  in  a 
more  charitable  light  than  anything  femi- 
nine is  supposed  to  do,  the  more  nearly 
romantic  I  grew  and  felt  almost  like  find- 
ing a  certain  charm  even  in  San  Juan. 
The  announcement  that  my  bed  was 
awaiting  me  was  all  that  saved  me  from 
utter  lunacy.  Casting  a  last  lingering 
glance  upon  the  fair  beauty  of  the  scene 
before  me,  I  gathered  together  my  half- 
scattered  prosaic  faculties  and  went  in- 
doors to— can  I  ever  give  you  an  idea  of  it  ? 
Across  a  vilely  dirty  room  was  stretched 
a  cord  upon  which  were  hung  to  dry,  huge 
and  manifold  strips  of  salt  meat.  To  my 
uneducated  olfactories  it  seemed  past  the 
turning  point  and  far  on  the  road  to  utter 
ruin — the  smell  was  so  suffocating  and 
sickening. 


38  Si£  Bags  on  tbe 


One  bed  Eduardo  had  succeeded  in 
making  very  comfortable  for  me,  while  on 
the  other,  in  its  birthday  suit,  lay  an  inter- 
esting but  constantly  wailing  infant  which 
was  soon  afterwards  joined  by  its  mother. 
A  hammock  for  Vincent  was  here  too,  and 
shortly  we  were  settled  for  the  night  in  our 
several  places. 

I  had  expressed  a  preference  to  stay 
outside  in  my  hammock,  but  the  plan  not 
proving  a  feasible  one,  I  drenched  a  hand- 
kerchief with  some  perfumery,  tied  it  under 
my  nose,  and  tried  to  find  relief  in  slumber 
sweet. 

I  was  awakened  by  a  queer  sort  of  noise 
that  made  me  feel  creepy  and  afraid  to 
breathe.  I  cannot  describe  it,  for  I  do  not 
know  anything  it  was  like.  The  darkness 
was  so  thick  that  1  could  cut  it,  I  am  sure, 
and  the  only  certainty  I  felt  at  having 
found  myself  where  I  last  remember  hav- 
ing been,  was  the  ever  strengthening  odor 
of  that  meat. 

When  I  could  bear  the  suspense  no 
longer,  in  a  frenzy  of  fear  I  broke  the 


Iburrtcane  Deck  of  a  /Iftule         39 


spell  of  silence  and  fairly  shrieked  to  Vin- 
cent. I  made  known  my  woes  ;  he  lighted 
a  match,  and  there,  just  above  my  head, 
upon  two  pegs  driven  into  the  wall  for  that 
express  use,  sat  two  parrots  dressing  their 
feathers  and  making  themselves  both  com- 
fortable for  the  night  and  beautiful  for  the 
morrow.  They  looked  as  if  they  felt  in- 
jured, and  I  know  I  did,  at  being  thus  dis- 
turbed. 

The  rest  of  the  night  passed  somehow — 
the  baby  squalled,  the  parrots  verbally  ex- 
postulated, a  hen  in  one  corner  of  the  room 
let  her  presence  be  known,  a  horrid  cat 
under  one  of  the  beds  joined  in  the  per- 
formance, and  the  fleas  grew  more  than 
lively,  but  the  most  potent  factor  was  that 
too  long-dead  one  which  appealed  to  an- 
other sense  than  that  of  hearing. 

How  thankful  I  was  when  the  dawn 
broke  and  I  felt  at  liberty  to  release  myself 
from  the  imprisonment  I  had  for  hours 
endured  and  go  out  into  the  fresh  air.  It 
was  really  cold  I  found,  but  soon  after  the 
sun  climbed  up  over  the  mountain  before 


40  Sir.  Bags  on  tbe 


us,  we  became  aware  that  his  genial  rays 
were  shedding  comfortable  warmth  as  well 
as  benignant  light  upon  all  around. 

We  made  an  early  start,  as  gladly  saying 
good-by  to  San  Pedro  as  we  had  regret- 
fully bid  farewell  to  La  Breita  the  previous 
morning. 

The  road  was  a  good  one  from  a  Hondu- 
ranian standpoint,  and  the  only  novel  feat- 
ure of  the  landscape  was  the  appearance 
of  the  rocks.  The  cliffs  were  black,  and 
looked  as  if  for  centuries  water  had  lashed 
in  restless  and  often  unsubdued  fury  around 
their  bases,  giving  them  that  peculiar  for- 
mation so  well  known  to  geologists. 

All  the  plains  were  thickly  strewn  with 
black  bowlders  of  sizes  ranging  from  im- 
mensity to  those  applicable  to  building  and 
paving  purposes.  Nowhere  have  I  ever  seen 
more  convincing  traces  of  the  drift  period. 

As  we  were  going  over  an  open  space 
where  the  sun  shone  more  warmly  than  else- 
where, a  great  yellow  and  black  snake  lazily 
dragged  itself  across  the  road  directly  in 
front  of  me. 


Iburrtcane  5>ecfc  of  a  /llbule         41 


I  was  sorry  to  see  it,  not  only  because  I 
have  an  innate  loathing  of  anything  that 
crawls  in  this  smooth,  sinuous,  treacherous 
manner,  but  because  I  had  wanted  to  make 
the  journey  without  encountering  a  single 
experience  of  the  kind. 

According  to  our  friend's  representa- 
tions, mostly  derived  from  her  imagination, 
aided  by  a  school  geography,  the  ground 
was  fairly  honeycombed  with  entrances  to 
the  abodes  of  these  reptiles,  and  I  fully 
expected  to  find  them  festooning  trees, 
bushes,  and  fences,  lying  in  wait  within 
every  tuft  of  grass,  and  in  fact  making  my 
life  one  hideous,  waking  nightmare. 

However,  this  was  the  first  and,  as  was 
afterwards  proved,  the  last  creature  of  the 
kind  I  was  called  upon  to  view,  either  dur- 
ing my  trip  or  my  subsequent  residence  in 
the  country  up  to  the  present  time.  Liz- 
ards I  saw  in  plenty,  but  their  shy,  quick 
way  of  darting  out  of  sight  reminded  me 
more  of  the  bashful  little  squirrels  at 
home  than  anything  else.  I  really  liked 
them,  in  their  place  of  course. 


42  Sf£  2>a£6  on  tbc 


It  still  lacked  an  hour  of  noon  when  we 
came  to  a  running  brook,  upon  whose  bank 
grew  a  tree  casting  such  an  inviting  shade 
that  we  could  not  resist  its  fascinations  but 
dismounted,  tied  our  mules,  and  began  to 
wish  and  watch  for  the  appearance  of 
Eduardo. 

Presently  Vincent  like 

"  Zaccheus,  he 
Did  climb  a  tree." 

the  sooner  to  perceive  the  coming  of  the 
expected  lunch,  and  I  indulged  in  a  nap. 
The  approach  of  a  horseman  aroused  me, 
and  false  hopes  together,  and  also  brought 
my  companion  to  the  ground. 

The  rider,  a  young,  good-looking  man, 
whose  toilet  was  the  nearest  approach 
to  a  civilized  one  I  had  recently  come 
across,  despite  his  bare  feet,  to  which  were 
strapped  spurs,  drew  up  in  the  middle  of 
the  brook,  and  after  the  customary  friendly 
greeting,  proceeded  to  inspect  us  in  a  most 
leisurely  way. 

Time,  a  good  deal  of  time,  passed  before 
our  servant  came,  but  there  he  sat.  The 


Ibutrtcane  2)ecfc  of  a  /iRule         43 


lunch  was  spread  and  partaken  of  long 
and  heartily,  and  still  he  calmly  surveyed 
us,  not  at  all  in  an  impertinent  way,  but 
just  as  if  he  were  honestly  interested.  We 
offered  him  some  jelly,  which  he  ate  in  a 
totally  unabashed  manner,  but  withdrew 
not  his  gaze.  We  ignored  him,  but  he 
took  not  the  hint.  Stay  there  he  did  until 
we  were  remounted,  and  then  for  miles 
and  miles  he  rode  along  with  us. 

We  were  rather  amused  than  otherwise 
at  his  course,  though  perhaps  we  experi- 
enced a  scarcely  recognized  feeling  of  re- 
lief when  we  came  to  a  place  where  our 
roads  lay  in  different  directions.  He  shook 
hands  with  us  in  the  same  friendly,  impres- 
sive, almost  warm  manner,  and  then  gal- 
loped merrily  off  as  if  he  had  fulfilled  an 
arduous  duty  and  now  felt  as  if  he  had  a 
right  to  enjoy  himself. 

Shortly  afterward  we  came  to  a  height 
overlooking  the  Yegnare  Valley,  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  and  far-reaching  scenes  it 
has  ever  been  my  good  fortune  to  behold. 

Great   pointed    peaks   kiss   the   sky  on 


44  Ste  2>ags  on  tbe 


every  side,  and  seem  to  shut  out  all  the 
noise  and  strife  of  the  world  beyond,  and 
like  sentinels,  grim  and  gaunt,  guard  intact 
the  peace  and  prosperity  of  the  vast  plains 
within  that  natural  wall. 

Two  farms  occupy  nearly  all  of  the 
valley,  and  so  extensive  are  they,  that  the 
farm-houses  are  four  miles  apart.  The 
owner  of  both  proved  to  be  none  other 
than  the  father  of  my  companion,  and 
though  there  was  still  one  more  day's  jour- 
ney before  us,  we  already  felt  quite  at  home. 

We  made  the  descent  and  entered  upon 
the  broad  domain  of  the  Hacienda  de  San 
Francisco,  the  boundary  of  which,  to  my 
amazement,  I  found  indicated  by  a  very 
familiar  American  barb-wire  fence. 

We  rode  through  fields  where  the  grass 
waved  high  above  our  heads,  over  pasture 
plains  where  hundreds  of  cattle,  mules,  and 
horses  roamed  at  will,  and  then,  when  the 
sun  was  sinking  low,  we  came  to  the  farm- 
house, and  here  we  dismounted  to  make  our 
last  night's  stop. 

The  building  is  a  remarkable  one,  hav- 


Iburrfcane  2>ecfc  of  a  /ifcule         45 


ing  been  a  monastery  years  and  years  ago, 
when  the  Jesuit  missionaries  were  devoting 
their  energies  and  lives  to  the  conversion 
of  the  untamed  Indians. 

It  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long, 
probably  one  third  as  deep,  and  has  walls 
a  yard  thick.  All  this  is  divided  into  five 
rooms — three  large  ones  running  the  whole 
depth  of  the  house  and  communicating 
with  each  other,  and  two  smaller  ones,  one 
behind  the  other,  and  only  had  access  to 
from  the  outside. 

The  floors  are  of  stone,  and  it  pleased 
me  to  fancy  that  many  of  the  worn  places 
had  been  formed  by  constant  contact  with 
the  bended  knees  of  the  holy  and  indefati- 
gable priests.  The  projecting  roof  of  tiles 
forms  a  sort  of  porch,  we  would  call  it, 
all  around  the  building,  and  is  paved,  as  is 
also  the  yard  for  many  feet.  Beyond  this 
the  land  gently  slopes  to  a  river,  and  still 
farther  on  a  mountain  rises  up  to  limit  the 
landscape  and  prevent  our  greedy  eyes 
from  drinking  of  beauty  to  a  more  than 
endurable  state  of  intoxication. 


46  Sf£  Dags  on  tbe 


It  was  blissful  to  lie  in  a  hammock  and 
watch  the  setting  sun  give  here  and  there 
a  lingering  farewell  touch  as  if  loath  to  go 
and  leave  behind  so  much  that  was  be- 
loved, and  then  at  the  close  of  the  short 
tropical  twilight  to  see  fair  Luna  crown, 
first  with  a  halo  of  approaching  glory  and 
then  with  her  own  sweet  self,  the  dark  peak 
whose  outlines  rose  sharp  and  clear  against 
the  star-pierced  blue  of  the  evening  sky. 

It  was  blissful,  I  say,  to  revel  in  this 
grand  pastoral  poem  in  the  full  conscious- 
ness that  the  transition  to  prose  would  be 
one  of  terror  ;  to  know  that  in  one  of  the 
big,  cool,  clean  rooms  a  comfortable  bed 
was  prepared  for  me,  where  I  would  lose 
myself  in  restful  unconsciousness,  guarded 
by  the  saint  whose  figure  could  be  clearly 
defined  in  an  old  oil-painting  on  the  wall, 
and  which,  with  two  others  of  a  like  kind, 
were  relics,  doubtless,  of  a  chapel's  pre- 
vious decoration. 

'T  was  even  so,  and  when  I  awoke  in  the 
morning  to  find  a  huge  vessel  of  water  from 
the  river  standing  by  a  shallow  tub  hewn 


Iburrtcane  Decfc  of  a  /Hbule         47 


from  the  trunk  of  a  tree,  while  near  at 
hand  were  placed  all  the  articles  necessary 
for  body  and  soul-satisfying  ablutions,  my 
perfect  content  knew  not  how  to  manifest 
itself. 

Beautiful  San  Francisco  !  What  happi- 
ness to  fill  the  house  with  twenty  chosen 
friends  and  there  to  dream  away  a  month 
or  more  of  idle  joy  !  Surely  after  such 
dolce  far  niente  days  life  could  hold  no 
bitterness  for  which  we  had  not,  in  ex- 
perience, a  ready  antidote. 

Too  soon,  it  seemed,  we  were  forced  to 
leave  there,  for  we  had  a  long,  weary  day 
of  mountain  climbing  ahead  of  us. 

"  A  bad  road,"  Vincent  said,  and  when 
he  warned  me  thus  I  knew  I  could  expect 
the  worst. 

We  departed  through  the  fields  again, 
past  the  barb-wire  boundary  line,  across 
the  river,  and  up  among  the  foot-hills, 
leading  to  the  mountain  close  at  hand. 
When  the  topmost  crest  was  reached  I 
stopped  for  a  last  look  at  the  Yegnare  Val- 
ley, at  San  Francisco  lying  below,  at  San 


48  Si£  Dags  on  tbe 


Morano  farther  in  the  distance,  at  the 
mountain  looming  up  in  the  background, 
beyond  which  lies  Tegacigalpa,  and  then  I 
turned  with  strengthened  spirit  to  the  task 
before  me. 

To  my  surprise,  at  this  height  we 
emerged  from  the  woods,  to  find  ourselves 
on  a  most  extensive  plain,  very  properly 
called,  in  the  Spanish,  La  Mesa — the  table. 
Here  we  encountered  the  wagon-road  lead- 
ing from  the  capital  to  our  destination  and 
for  a  long  distance  we  followed  it.  After 
we  left  La  Mesa  it  was  simply  horrible, 
and  all  my  attention  became  absorbed  in 
self. 

By  no  means  is  any  one  to  presume  that 
my  mule  and  I  had  become  reconciled  by 
our  lengthened  companionship.  Discom- 
fort amounting  to  positive  agony  had 
taught  me  to  adopt  more  attitudes,  grace- 
ful or  ungraceful,  than  all  the  combined 
systems  of  Delsarte  and  other  physical 
culturists  could  possibly  suggest. 

Every  muscle  in  my  body  had  been  so 
frequently  called  into  requisition  that  to 


fburrfcane  Becfc  of  a  dfcule         49 


use  any  one  almost  drew  forth  an  involun- 
tary scream.  In  various  places  the  skin  had 
been  worn  away  by  constant  friction  of  the 
clothing  or  saddle,  leaving  highly  sensitive 
sores,  even  my  gauntlets  reducing  my 
wrists  to  such  a  state. 

Words  cannot  express  what  I  suffered. 
The  torture  had  been  of  a  less  acute  kind 
while  we  were  riding  over  comparatively 
level  roads,  but  here  we  were  going  "  up 
hill  and  down  dale  "  again,  and  how  I  was 
to  bear  it  I  could  not  see. 

I  tried  to  be  brave,  and  I  think  rarely,  if 
ever,  a  complaint  passed  my  lips,  but 
during  that  last  day  I  more  than  once 
nearly  committed  suicide  through  sheer 
physical  exhaustion. 

My  stock  of  reserved  strength  proved  to 
be  far  greater  than  I  had  ever  reason  to 
believe  it,  and  demand  for  more  endurance 
was  always  met. 

When  my  mule  had  some  particularly 
difficult  obstacle  to  surmount,  she  had  a 
way  of  approaching  it  quietly  and  then 
suddenly  giving  a  hump  that  filled  her  spine 


50  Six  2>ag0  on  tbe 

with  complex  curves  and  a  burden,  unless 
care  were  exercised,  with  compound  frac- 
•tures.  In  order  to  insure  one's  safety  it 
is  absolutely  necessary  to  preserve  an  exact 
equilibrium  directly  over  the  said  spine  in 
a  line  running  from  the  point  midway 
between  her  ears  to  her  tail.  This  is  at 
times  so  gigantic  a  task  that  it  is  no  wonder 
a  temporary  oblivion  to  bodily  sensation  is 
induced. 

Poor  mule  !  In  moments  when  I  could 
summon  up  any  spare  sympathy,  I  lavished 
it  upon  her.  She  seemed  to  be  tired  too. 

Finally,  when  going  down  steep  ravines, 
she  ceased  to  lower  herself  and  me  gently 
from  one  foothold  to  the  next,  but  acquired 
a  habit  of  thumping  down  in  a  reckless 
way,  giving  a  sort  of  grunt,  which  some- 
times, for  the  life  of  me,  I  could  not  help 
accompanying  with  a  groan  that  seemed  to 
come  from  my  very  shoes.  I  had  no  fear 
of  falling.  In  fact,  I  think  I  should  have 
hailed  it  as  a  delightful  change  could  we 
have  rolled  down  a  cliff  and  finished  even 
life's  journey  with  this  one. 


Ifourrtcane  2>ecfc  of  a  dfcule         51 


Lunch  time  found  us  in  the  midst  of  a 
pine  forest,  but  such  a  s'parsely  grown  one 
that  the  shade  was  a  mockery.  Heat, 
hunger,  and  those  delightful  insinuating 
little  insects  known  as  woodticks  were  not 
conducive  to  our  happiness  here,  and  more 
than  glad  were  we  when  the  arrival  of  our 
food  bearer  gave  promise  of  an  early  change 
of  scene. 

We  ate  up  everything  we  could,  and  then, 
with  every  nerve  tingling  with  joy  at  the 
speedy  home-coming,  we  fnounted  our 
faithful  carriers  for  the  last  time. 

Very  soon  after  this  we  left  the  abomi- 
nable but  so-called  wagon  road,  and  took  a 
short  cut  over  the  mountains.  It  would 
be  but  vain  repetition  to  describe  our  "  ups 
and  downs  "  for  the  next  few  hours.  The 
agony  was  just  as  exquisite,  the  scenery 
was  just  as  grand  and  variable,  but  as  far 
as  I  know  it  the  English  language  contains 
no  words  of  sufficient  intensity  to  express 
more  than  I  have  already  iterated  and 
reiterated. 

Presently  a  not  far  distant  peak  came  in 


52  Si£  H>ags  on  tbe 


sight,  and  as  we  clambered  up  higher  we 
could  see  more  and  more  of  it  until  finally, 
on  an  elevated  plateau  at  its  base,  there 
appeared  a  collection  of  houses.  Across 
that  intervening  space  I  could  gain  no  idea 
of  what  the  village  would  be  like,  but  I 
remember  thinking  that,  with  that  glorious 
mountain  to  look  at,  I  could  never  get 
homesick. 

Here  a  rapidly  approaching  horseman 
came  in  view,  who  proved  to  be  still  another 
youth  whom  I  had  known  in  the  States, 
and  under  this  double  escort  I  rode  past 
a  suburban  mining  camp,  across  the  great 
plaza  crowded  with  Sunday  idlers,  down 
another  street,  through  a  broad  doorway 
into  a  paved  courtyard,  and  found  myself 
at  last  at  home  in  Yuscaran. 

Kind  hands  assisted  me  to  dismount, 
and  led  me  to  the  gallery-like  corridor 
above,  filled  with  friendly  faces,  and  from 
there  into  a  spacious  parlor  that  seemed 
like  a  palace  after  my  recent  experiences. 

In  consideration  of  my  fatigue  I  was 
almost  immediately  shown  to  my  own 


Ibutricane  2>ecfc  of  a  flfcule         53 


room,  which  I  found  luxuriously  perfect 
in  all  its  appointments. 

In  the  preceding  six  days  I  had  learned 
a  good  deal  that  was  new,  but  it  remained 
for  the  revelation  of  this  moment  to  teach 
me  what  gratitude  is.  A  wave  of  thank- 
fulness came  over  me  that  sent  me  to  my 
knees,  and  ever  since  then  I  have  been 
content  just  to  be  glad  I  am  alive. 

Yes,  my  cousin,  that  mule  was  worse 
than  even  you  knew — infinitely  worse  than 
a  wheel,  thanks  to  which  I  lost  some  twenty- 
five  pounds  in  six  weeks,  while  in  as  many 
days  the  mule  reduced  me  to  a  mass  of 
lacerated  skin,  fractured  bones,  and 'mad- 
dening flea-bites.  Should  you  and  my 
gracious  captain  friend  ever  meet,  may  the 
kindly  Fates  order  my  presence  elsewhere  ! 

But  for  the  others  I  have  no  cheering 
report  of  fulfilled  predictions. 

My  complexion  has  been  admired  for  its 
fairness,  a  quality  it  still  possesses — by 
comparison  ;  I  have  searched  long  and 
vainly  among  the  surrounding  inhabitants 
for  even  one  barbarian  ;  I  have  failed  to 


54        Iburticane  Deck  of  a 


feel  either  sea-sickness  or  home-sickness  ; 
I  have  never  been  more  perfectly  healthy, 
and  no  dread  fever  seems  to  have  selected 
me  for  a  victim  ;  I  have  found  no  snake 
coiled  within  my  shoe  of  a  morning,  nor 
have  I  discovered  one  as  an  unwelcome 
bedfellow  at  night.  Truth  to  tell,  you  are 
all  wrong,  but  one,  and  now  hear  me. 

Until  railroads,  flying  machines,  balloons, 
seven-league  boots,  magic  wishing-rings,  or 
some  such  means  of  transit  are  adopted  in 
Honduras,  I  choose  to  stay  here  and  grow 
up  with  the  country,  for  never,  while  I  have 
breath  to  object  or  heart  to  consider  self, 
will  I  spend  another  six  days  "  on  the 
hurricane  deck  of  a  mule." 

ALMIRA  STILWELL  COLE. 


